Asus RT-N16 "Light" and "Cooling" mods

[hggomes]

"Light" and "Cooling" mods

Next will be Serial,JTAG,Extra 2xUSB and with some corage... 256MB

- Some tape to a stronger light.
- "Improved" cooler on CPU (from far better, stock its a little HOT even at 480mhz) and stock cooler on Ethernet controller, it's ready for a few more MHZ

ADDED: 2 new pictures (memory heatsinks)

[wpte]

looks nice hggomes!
you just pulled off the old heat-sink, cleaned it up, new heat-sink with new cooling paste?

does the ethernet controller gets that hot? I mean... usually those chips work around 35 degrees C for optimal performance

I haven't had any cooling problems so far...

[hggomes]

looks nice hggomes!
you just pulled off the old heat-sink, cleaned it up, new heat-sink with new cooling paste?

does the ethernet controller gets that hot? I mean... usually those chips work around 35 degrees C for optimal performance

I haven't had any cooling problems so far...

Hi, yes i've put in both a new "glue gum", the ethernet controller doesn't get to hot but i don't wanted to wast the heat-sink I don't have cooling problems either, but with the case closed the CPU stays a little bit hot (it doesn't represent a problem for sure it was tested before at the lab and aproved to work with that temperature), at 533mhz it should be even more, so now it's "perfect" with the new heat-sink it's a lot cooler, i remember well the BIG difference in temperature on my old WL-500GP/W with and without it, specially on hot days. My filosophy it's "more cooler, better"



OFF-TOPIC - My oldys...
========

WL-500GP - @300MHZ @128MB, Heat-Sink, 4x USB, Removable Caps, 2x Mini Serial Port

Removable Caps




Heat-Sink

[hggomes]

cat /proc/cpuinfo

system type : Broadcom BCM4716 chip rev 1
processor : 0
cpu model : MIPS 74K V4.0
BogoMIPS : 238.59
wait instruction : no
microsecond timers : yes
tlb_entries : 64
extra interrupt vector : no
hardware watchpoint : yes
ASEs implemented : mips16 dsp
VCED exceptions : not available
VCEI exceptions : not available

unaligned_instructions : 2
dcache hits : 2147483648
dcache misses : 3543136790
icache hits : 2147483648
icache misses : 1605460392
instructions : 2147483648

This info is from model BCM4716 underclocked 300Mhz CPU, that's why it shows only "BogoMIPS: 238.59" , RT-N16 should have from factory clock speed (480MHZ)a near value. ~480 BogoMIPS.

[wpte]

This info is from model BCM4716 underclocked 300Mhz CPU, that's why it shows only "BogoMIPS: 238.59" , RT-N16 should have from factory clock speed (480MHZ)a near value. ~480 BogoMIPS.

yes cpuinfo detects a different cpu, but it really is a BCM4718
bogus mips: bogus means something like fake/not real.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/BogoMips

but wait... you glued it on?
that's not very heat conducting

[hggomes]

but wait... you glued it on?
that's not very heat conducting

LOL, its not glue glue, its a special tape, try to remove yours and see whats between cpu and heat-sink so you can understand...

[hggomes]

Interesting, ASUS FW uses 453,226,113 speeds (BogoMIPS: 225.28), not 480,240,120 or even 533(2),266,133. Im wondering why??

Not 100% stable?

http://www.foxnetwork.ru/index.php/e...us-rt-n16.html

[hggomes]

ASUS-WRT FW on RT-N16 with wrong specs and picture, its from RT-N66U

Btw R3453 has improved my USB transfer rate 2mb/s, awesome

[wpte]

FAN? What for? Annoying sounds and extra power consumption? No way
Sorry to tell but this revision its much better :P

I don't mind a fan, I just thought: this router is so bad ass it needs a fan to cool it
hehe, I have a laptop cooler under my rt-n16 as well... really works out in the summer, since it overheats now and then

[hggomes]

RT-N16 does not need a fan in my opinion, you can add passive heatsinks that can perfectly do the job, even if you overclock. I have my RT-N16 with 5 heat sinks (CPU, Switch, Radio, Memorys) and temperatures are great

My advice to all people who have problems with temperatures or not is to remove the top cover of the router, temperatures will drop alot and i don't see any problem with it, router will live longer for sure. I have 2 routers WL-500W and both have the same working hours, one without cover (its just like new) and the other it has 2 capacitors blown, obviously that was influency of the temperatures inside the case, so here is my recomendation to everyone. (including you WPTE) :P

PS: I hate fans (specially when they get dirty and start to do those known annoying sounds)

[wpte]

PS: I hate fans (specially when they get dirty and start to do those known annoying sounds)

hmmm yeah that's the thing, I never really opened my routers for warranty purposes
unlike you might expect, the fan controller I have has really low power fans. it has been running over 3 years now 24/7 and I never cleaned it.
Still... the sound is lower than my WD mybook 1TB
I placed another drive on it as well... since it can become pretty hot... 50 degrees or something. It's an old drive, but with the laptop cooler it stays nicely around 30 degrees

[hggomes]

hmmm yeah that's the thing, I never really opened my routers for warranty purposes

In that case i don't know how you've got installed the fan, where the air from the fan flows? Between cover holes? That should not be very effective. :S

[wpte]

In that case i don't know how you've got installed the fan, where the air from the fan flows? Between cover holes? That should not be very effective. :S

laptop cooler: http://www2.conrad.nl/goto.php?artikel=999200
it's not the same one as I have, this one is very luxurious!
I mean, it has a usb hub and on/off switch
apart from that it's the very same one

I've learned from building pc's that just the tiniest little airflow (instead of none) can affect the temperature in a big way.

btw, spider? you guys have green spiders over there? o.0

[!gm]

btw, spider? you guys have green spiders over there? o.0

bwaaahahaaha


hggomes, that spider is a counter-argument of your advise to run the Router without the top-cover

I don't want anything touching wlan cables or eating parts of the PCB!

[hggomes]

RT-N16 does not need a fan in my opinion, you can add passive heatsinks that can perfectly do the job, even if you overclock. I have my RT-N16 with 5 heat sinks (CPU, Switch, Radio, Memorys) and temperatures are great

My advice to all people who have problems with temperatures or not is to remove the top cover of the router, temperatures will drop alot and i don't see any problem with it, router will live longer for sure. I have 2 routers WL-500W and both have the same working hours, one without cover (its just like new) and the other it has 2 capacitors blown, obviously that was influency of the temperatures inside the case, so here is my recomendation to everyone. (including you WPTE) :P


PS: I hate fans (specially when they get dirty and start to do those known annoying sounds)