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Asus RT-N16 "Light" and "Cooling" mods
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looks nice hggomes!
you just pulled off the old heat-sink, cleaned it up, new heat-sink with new cooling paste?:p
does the ethernet controller gets that hot? I mean... usually those chips work around 35 degrees C for optimal performance:p
I haven't had any cooling problems so far...
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Quote:
Originally Posted by
wpte
looks nice hggomes!
you just pulled off the old heat-sink, cleaned it up, new heat-sink with new cooling paste?:p
does the ethernet controller gets that hot? I mean... usually those chips work around 35 degrees C for optimal performance:p
I haven't had any cooling problems so far...
Hi, yes i've put in both a new "glue gum", the ethernet controller doesn't get to hot but i don't wanted to wast the heat-sink ;) I don't have cooling problems either, but with the case closed the CPU stays a little bit hot (it doesn't represent a problem for sure it was tested before at the lab and aproved to work with that temperature), at 533mhz it should be even more, so now it's "perfect" with the new heat-sink it's a lot cooler, i remember well the BIG difference in temperature on my old WL-500GP/W with and without it, specially on hot days. My filosophy it's "more cooler, better" ;)
OFF-TOPIC - My oldys... ;)
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WL-500GP - @300MHZ @128MB, Heat-Sink, 4x USB, Removable Caps, 2x Mini Serial Port
Removable Caps ;)
http://img130.imageshack.us/img130/3986/imag0071e.jpg
http://img197.imageshack.us/img197/5003/imag0072p.jpg
Heat-Sink
http://img130.imageshack.us/img130/9575/imag0073x.jpg
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cat /proc/cpuinfo
system type : Broadcom BCM4716 chip rev 1
processor : 0
cpu model : MIPS 74K V4.0
BogoMIPS : 238.59
wait instruction : no
microsecond timers : yes
tlb_entries : 64
extra interrupt vector : no
hardware watchpoint : yes
ASEs implemented : mips16 dsp
VCED exceptions : not available
VCEI exceptions : not available
unaligned_instructions : 2
dcache hits : 2147483648
dcache misses : 3543136790
icache hits : 2147483648
icache misses : 1605460392
instructions : 2147483648
This info is from model BCM4716 underclocked 300Mhz CPU, that's why it shows only "BogoMIPS: 238.59" , RT-N16 should have from factory clock speed (480MHZ)a near value. ~480 BogoMIPS.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by
hggomes
This info is from model BCM4716 underclocked 300Mhz CPU, that's why it shows only "BogoMIPS: 238.59" , RT-N16 should have from factory clock speed (480MHZ)a near value. ~480 BogoMIPS.
yes cpuinfo detects a different cpu, but it really is a BCM4718:)
bogus mips: bogus means something like fake/not real.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/BogoMips
but wait... you glued it on?:eek:
that's not very heat conducting:confused:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by
wpte
but wait... you glued it on?:eek:
that's not very heat conducting:confused:
LOL, its not glue glue, its a special tape, try to remove yours and see whats between cpu and heat-sink so you can understand...
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@hggomes
Hey,
Could you share the details about the parts you purchased and used to upgrade the cooling for the RT-N16 ?
It would be extremely helpful if you could :)
Thanks !
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Hi, in my case i used a heat-sink from CoolerMaster Blue Ice Cooler, i removed the fan (40mm), it has a glue tape mixed with a metal conductor so you can make it glued and conductive, it works perfectly. There are other heat-sinks that work the same way, it's a matter of some research on those heat-sinks =< 40mm to get a better temperature, the diference of temperature is big, i haven't measure it yet but it should be near 10º, it's not even warm. If you have one of this kind heat-sinks that fit in the "socket" without the glued tape (most kind) you can resolve it with a glue named PRITT, i've already test it and works fine it seems those materials used on GFX/NB of notebooks, its a kind of glue that doesn't dry (gum).
Good luck ;)
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Mookatroid
@hggomes
Hey,
Could you share the details about the parts you purchased and used to upgrade the cooling for the RT-N16 ?
It would be extremely helpful if you could :)
Thanks !
_________________
2 x ASUS RT-N16 DD-WRT 13309 Eko Big
1 x WRT600N v1.1 DD-WRT 12638 BS Mini-USB
3 x WRT600N v1.1 DD-WRT 12058 BS Mini-USB
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Quote:
Originally Posted by
hggomes
Hi, in my case i used a heat-sink from CoolerMaster Blue Ice Cooler, i removed the fan (40mm), it has a glue tape mixed with a metal conductor so you can make it glued and conductive, it works perfectly. There are other heat-sinks that work the same way, it's a matter of some research on those heat-sinks =< 40mm to get a better temperature, the diference of temperature is big, i haven't measure it yet but it should be near 10º, it's not even warm. If you have one of this kind heat-sinks that fit in the "socket" without the glued tape (most kind) you can resolve it with a glue named PRITT, i've already test it and works fine it seems those materials used on GFX/NB of notebooks, its a kind of glue that doesn't dry (gum).
Good luck ;)
Thanks for the info.
I should not have any problem finding CoolerMaster products.
However PRITT does not seem to make any computer-type glue.
Glue used to apply a heatsink should have thermal capabilities like this one .... http://www.arcticsilver.com/arctic_s...l_adhesive.htm
Yes ?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by
Mookatroid
Thanks for the info.
I should not have any problem finding CoolerMaster products.
However PRITT does not seem to make any computer-type glue.
Glue used to apply a heatsink should have thermal capabilities like this one ....
http://www.arcticsilver.com/arctic_s...l_adhesive.htm
Yes ?
Yes in fact PRITT does not have thermal capabilities but also original ASUS RT-N16 heat-sink doesn't have either, is just PURE glue between both (cpu and heat-sink, ASUS made it that way it's because it's enough to do the job) and so many other devices just like notebooks, motherboards and others have only a kind of glue gum attached (without thermal capabilitie), so i think in some cases you don't need a EXTREME thermal capabilitie because it's not needed, but offcourse if you have even better.
PS: Have you noticed that all thermal sticks have glue on both sides of the thermal metal conductor?
Artic Silver should work fine (or 1 dollar 40mm thermal sticks), but you need to be careful because its conductivity and there's also other "problem" some people reported that you will never again take off the heat-sink, it will be stucked (artic = super glue).
What i will do is to measure the temperature of CPU with the glue and with the thermal stick so i can tell you the diferences, or eventually with my other unit try the artic silver and then compare all the three temperatures, of course it would be better if i could make it with 533Mhz, but i will try at 480 first.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by
hggomes
What i will do is to measure the temperature of CPU with the glue and with the thermal stick so i can tell you the diferences, or eventually with my other unit try the artic silver and then compare all the three temperatures, of course it would be better if i could make it with 533Mhz, but i will try at 480 first.
Standing by ....
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Quote:
Originally Posted by
Mookatroid
Standing by ....
Waiting for measure "stuff" ;)
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Interesting, ASUS FW uses 453,226,113 speeds (BogoMIPS: 225.28), not 480,240,120 or even 533(2),266,133. Im wondering why??
Not 100% stable?
http://www.foxnetwork.ru/index.php/e...us-rt-n16.html
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1 Attachment(s)
ASUS-WRT FW on RT-N16 with wrong specs and picture, its from RT-N66U :D
Btw R3453 has improved my USB transfer rate 2mb/s, awesome :D
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Quote:
Originally Posted by
hggomes
FAN? What for? Annoying sounds and extra power consumption? No way ;)
Sorry to tell but this revision its much better :P
:D
I don't mind a fan, I just thought: this router is so bad ass it needs a fan to cool it:cool:
hehe, I have a laptop cooler under my rt-n16 as well... really works out in the summer, since it overheats now and then:(
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RT-N16 does not need a fan in my opinion, you can add passive heatsinks that can perfectly do the job, even if you overclock. I have my RT-N16 with 5 heat sinks (CPU, Switch, Radio, Memorys) and temperatures are great :D
My advice to all people who have problems with temperatures or not is to remove the top cover of the router, temperatures will drop alot and i don't see any problem with it, router will live longer for sure. I have 2 routers WL-500W and both have the same working hours, one without cover (its just like new) and the other it has 2 capacitors blown, obviously that was influency of the temperatures inside the case, so here is my recomendation to everyone. (including you WPTE) :P
PS: I hate fans (specially when they get dirty and start to do those known annoying sounds) :D
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Quote:
Originally Posted by
hggomes
PS: I hate fans (specially when they get dirty and start to do those known annoying sounds) :D
hmmm yeah that's the thing, I never really opened my routers for warranty purposes:)
unlike you might expect, the fan controller I have has really low power fans. it has been running over 3 years now 24/7 and I never cleaned it.
Still... the sound is lower than my WD mybook 1TB:D
I placed another drive on it as well... since it can become pretty hot... 50 degrees or something. It's an old drive, but with the laptop cooler it stays nicely around 30 degrees:)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by
wpte
hmmm yeah that's the thing, I never really opened my routers for warranty purposes:)
In that case i don't know how you've got installed the fan, where the air from the fan flows? Between cover holes? That should not be very effective. :S
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RT-N16 Pictures
http://img850.imageshack.us/img850/1912/img1050rf.jpg
http://img708.imageshack.us/img708/7774/img1051cg.jpg
Quote:
Originally Posted by
hggomes
RT-N16 does not need a fan in my opinion, you can add passive heatsinks that can perfectly do the job, even if you overclock. I have my RT-N16 with 5 heat sinks (CPU, Switch, Radio, Memorys) and temperatures are great :D
My advice to all people who have problems with temperatures or not is to remove the top cover of the router, temperatures will drop alot and i don't see any problem with it, router will live longer for sure. I have 2 routers WL-500W and both have the same working hours, one without cover (its just like new) and the other it has 2 capacitors blown, obviously that was influency of the temperatures inside the case, so here is my recomendation to everyone. (including you WPTE) :P
PS: I hate fans (specially when they get dirty and start to do those known annoying sounds) :D
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Quote:
Originally Posted by
hggomes
In that case i don't know how you've got installed the fan, where the air from the fan flows? Between cover holes? That should not be very effective. :S
laptop cooler: http://www2.conrad.nl/goto.php?artikel=999200
it's not the same one as I have, this one is very luxurious!
I mean, it has a usb hub and on/off switch:D
apart from that it's the very same one:)
I've learned from building pc's that just the tiniest little airflow (instead of none) can affect the temperature in a big way.
btw, spider? you guys have green spiders over there? o.0
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Quote:
Originally Posted by
wpte
btw, spider? you guys have green spiders over there? o.0
bwaaahahaaha :D
hggomes, that spider is a counter-argument of your advise to run the Router without the top-cover :)
I don't want anything touching wlan cables or eating parts of the PCB!
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Last edited by hggomes; Yesterday at 23:18.. Reason: POWERED BY A SPIDER :D
I've noticed that before everyone, and i only noticed after i took the photo, really ironic. :D
Never happened before, i have WL-500W working 3 years with top-cover opened, but spiders don't eat cables or PCBs. :D
Yes Wpte we have here lots of diferent "animals" here, GREEN spiders too, you haven't understand why? To suit the PCB offcourse ahahaahah :D
PS: The spider hasn't entered because i removed the top-cover, it was already there, i removed the cover to take the picture (to show to wpte), !gm in case you haven't noticed the router has holes big enough to such things happen, so don't be surprised to open yours and see a spider "eating" your PCB and cables, if that happen its because it entered other animal heeheheheh, it would be funny to see such thing LOL :D
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yeah yes, I read the edit mark :)
I thought the tiny holes are the only ones.. Now, I did take a closer look (at my device) and yes, found holes on the underside, where you attach the thing at a wall, that are big enough to let spiders and rodents in... (just kidding) :D
good night
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That's a LMR400 cable to connect an external antenna, if you notice i have 2 internal antenna's attached and the other one is the cable ;)
Good night 4 U 2 ;)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by
hggomes
Yes Wpte we have here lots of diferent "animals" here, GREEN spiders too, you haven't understand why? To suit the PCB offcourse ahahaahah :D
Green spiders are not animals, they are spiders from hell:eek:
seriously, if I'd see a green spider here... brix will be shat:p
but perhaps it's just green because it ate from your pcb;)
edit... noooo it's here:
http://www.mark-ju.net/wildlife/images/spider1.jpg
:eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek:
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Thats exactly the same spider that was on the router, i've tried to catch her but she was fast as hell, she jumped out of the router in 1ms. :D Do you have scare of spiders?? LOL ehheh
I hope my PCB don't start to itching :D
Look what i've found:
http://www.surviveoutdoors.com/refer...green_lynx.asp
She is still alive so i guess we will still see each other someday :D
Look to this new ASUS router WPTE:
http://ednieuw.home.xs4all.nl/austra...alticidae.html
What do you think of it? Cool ah? eheheheheh :D
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Quote:
Originally Posted by
hggomes
Do you have scare of spiders?? LOL ehheh
nope, not scared, as long as they don't have funky colors;)
it's like seeing an alien... they look weird:eek:
